ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Jun 20, 2018 10:30:02 GMT 10
Interesting build idea. I love the idea of upcycling what would be normally discarded timber into something useful.
I would suggest throw a few strap cross braces onto it. They cost peanuts, and may very well help prevent it from blowing over sideways if a storm comes through.
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Jun 19, 2018 23:46:43 GMT 10
I hadn't looked at the Earthwool. It is cheaper on area alone, but I'd need to look at the comparison of price per area per R-Value. Although I must say the Earthwool is already in the negative with their sales pitch of "the natural brown colour represents a level of sustainability and ease of handling never before acheived..." They seriously think we're stupid enough to buy based on colour? Maybe they're right with some people... Quick dig indicates the XPS has a R value of 1.0 (https://2ecffd01e1ab3e9383f0-07db7b9624bbdf022e3b5395236d5cf8.ssl.cf4.rackcdn.com/Product/7b937384-284f-4377-b605-f55c5f8bc8e0.PDF) cf the Earthwool R value of 2.0. Yeah... not sure what the sales person was smoking when they wrote that...
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Jun 19, 2018 23:39:19 GMT 10
Extracts from AS 3700 and AS 4773: ibb.co/fbagCyibb.co/bQzV5JReading between the lines, "where insulation is placed in a cavity, the moisture resistance of the wall shall be maintained" suggests that if you're intending to insulate the cavity (not between the wall studs as is conventional), you need to ensure that the insulation method you are using acts as a barrier against moisture ingress. Material like rockwool do not act as a barrier, obviously. Note it also stipulates a minimum cavity of 40 mm width with proper detailing to prevent condensation damage to the internal framing/insulation.
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Jun 19, 2018 21:38:44 GMT 10
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Jun 19, 2018 21:32:11 GMT 10
Would gluing them directly to the inner wall reduce their effectiveness? A stud wall might help create separation from the outer leaf, and prevent thermal bridging. Could you maybe look at a low cost studs (say 64 mm steel studs) to create a cheapo wall? I haven't done the numbers though, just being an annoying back-seat-DIY-er. Insulated foil panels definitely sound like a great idea. With metal you'd expect a lot of the heat to be radiant, so that reflective coat should be excellent! From what I've read you don't want separation unless you have a vapor barrier between the steel and the inside as any air in that cavity can have moisture which can condense onto the steel. Living in QLD as I do I never bothered much about this, and for the most part we have bare steel on the inside which at times does form some moisture but as it's not trapped in a cavity it doesn't matter I think. One method is to glue closed-cell foam to the steel, but this would get pretty tedious, maybe timber battens with spray foam infill. I think you could do that and have the foam proud of the battens then run a piano wire down the timber to trim off the foam. Yes FB, I've been thinking a bit about this since we talked The reason people began constructing cavity walls in the past was actually to create a space for condensate to drain. Placing insulation directly in contact with the exterior leaf created issues with the expelling of moisture and the growth of mould. The installation of flashing at the bottom of the wall encourages the condensate to exit via weepholes. To the best of my knowledge, you would never want to have a cavity without weepholes to expel condensate. I've been thinking more on the detail Frostbite has suggested, and I still think it's pretty solid. The corrugations provide a way for moisture to drain away from the insulation, and I'm assuming the shipping container would have a way of expelling the collected moisture as I'm sure condensate happens while they're being used for shipping transport. Edit: Had another thought. Battens on the wall could still direct some moisture towards the insulation (albeit a lot less). Depending on budget, a properly constructed stud wall of some kind (could be very lightweight, considering it's non-loadbearing) might still be the best way forward.
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Jun 19, 2018 15:47:23 GMT 10
Would gluing them directly to the inner wall reduce their effectiveness? A stud wall might help create separation from the outer leaf, and prevent thermal bridging. Could you maybe look at a low cost studs (say 64 mm steel studs) to create a cheapo wall? I haven't done the numbers though, just being an annoying back-seat-DIY-er. Insulated foil panels definitely sound like a great idea. With metal you'd expect a lot of the heat to be radiant, so that reflective coat should be excellent!
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Jun 19, 2018 14:47:02 GMT 10
I think the US should turn Taiwan into a massive military base. That'd learn those dirty chinese to build military bases in other people's territory. Things will get interesting then, see how tough the chinese are when push comes to shove. I'm not hugely pro-China, but have you looked into how many military bases the US has around the world compared to the military bases China has? The US has huge numbers. China has minuscule numbers. Edit: I should add I'm also not pro-US. I'm too busy worrying about my own business to take sides on who did who wrong.
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ygidorp
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EDC
Jun 13, 2018 0:14:20 GMT 10
Post by ygidorp on Jun 13, 2018 0:14:20 GMT 10
I also have put a custom made first aid kit in my car and the wife's. TQs, pressure bandages, Israeli bandages, mostly. A few band aids to cover minor boo boos, too.
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ygidorp
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EDC
Jun 13, 2018 0:12:09 GMT 10
Post by ygidorp on Jun 13, 2018 0:12:09 GMT 10
I used to carry a small torch as well, but it kept turning itself on and draining the batteries. Trying to find a way to carry one without it going flat all the time.
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Jun 13, 2018 0:10:54 GMT 10
I'm a bit late to the party I know, but I'm surprised I seem to be on the heavier side of things! I have one of these bags: www.ebay.com.au/itm/Molle-Men-Sling-Chest-Bag-Tactical-Military-Cross-Body-Messenger-Shoulder-Pack/272728501594?epid=8003682747&hash=item3f7fe2ad5a:m:mDH7lZafGiV5PpP3IPCJzuQIt's tiny, less than the size needed to carry a 11" laptop. Inside it I carry: - 1 x TQ - 1 x Israeli bandage - 2 x pressure dressings - 1 x wound packing gauze - 1 x thermal bag - small disinfectant bottle (used quite frequently) - several band aids (used quite frequently) - 4 snack bars (high turnover) - prescription sunglasses - pliers multitool - utility knife (probably overkill) - lighter x 2 (probably overkill, but great for lighting candles at children's birthday parties) - thumb drive - small case of vaseline - disposable KFC straw/serviette/teaspoon - Notebook (paper) - 2 pens + 1 pencil There still remains space for me to carry around a fair bit jammed on top of the existing contents. Maybe it's because my job is mostly desk work, I don't feel it's very heavy. I carry it to and from work, and whenever I go out of the office I wear it. I've also started carrying it with me when I leave the house on weekends, leading my wife to call it my 'man bag'.
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Apr 13, 2018 12:25:37 GMT 10
use pots at least 30cm diameter and depth. and good soil. I use loamy, organic rich soil mined out of my chook pen (20 chooks for 13 years makes some good dirt). This is a basil plant bought from the food section of woolies. Planted it back in late december and its now 40 cm high and I've been scalping it regularly. The tomato is a volunteer that came up (they always do in chook pen soil) This pot is in afternoon shade. If I was growing tomatos etc out in full sun I'd wrap the black plastic pot in foil because the sun on black plastic is hot enough to cook the roots. I water so just a little bit of drainage comes out the bottom after 30 minutes. If you see drainage water within a minute either the soil is too porous (most potting mixes) or the soil has shrunk away from the pot and water is flowing down the gap and not through the whole root mass. Either is not ideal. I use discs of geocloth in base of pot to allow drainage and keep the soil in. Water with rainwater as tap water has dissolved salts that build up. I have this problem a lot - the pot dries out completely really quickly when using potting mix. The flip side my soil is predominantly clay which does not allow water to percolate easily at all. Maybe a better mixture is in order? Did you have to compost the chicken poop soil before use?
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Apr 13, 2018 11:33:14 GMT 10
Did you guys do any courses for welding? I'd love to learn how to weld, but the huge price tag and time required on welding courses has put me off.
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Apr 13, 2018 11:28:41 GMT 10
Chicken run/coop - Posts recycled from a friend's home - 90% beams recycled from when a tree fell on my sister's verandah, destroying it - Roof sheeting from Gumtree/leftovers from my dad's shed Small chicken coop - Found on the side of the road, reclad the roof with polycarbonate from Gumtree. Used as chicken hospital/isolation ward. Compost bins (WIP) - All timber except the doors made from pallets collected for free from a Bunnings - Roof sheeting from Gumtree Feed storage bin - 220L barrel used to transport canned pineapple in a previous life.
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Aug 18, 2017 11:18:52 GMT 10
On a side note the history books are full of examples where the victory has gone to those who were hopelessly out numbers an the attackers had better technology. Raiders in that sort of setting get a blood lust and go made and throw caution to the wind - a little bit of careful planning and one has a good chance to take them out. If you have a semi auto, reasonable calibre with a bunch of 20 to 30 round capacity magazines, then maybe as they are standing around outside you can hit enough of them to cause panic and withdrawal. You can guarantee they'll come back for revenge though. If you have a bolt action and DB shotgun vs AR15s though, not good odds. The history books might have examples of victory against superior numbers because it makes better reading. Reading about 2 people getting butchered by 30 doesn't make inspirational reading.
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Aug 17, 2017 17:27:14 GMT 10
bugging in in a suburban home where you are a visitor.. It's not in your house. Really well thought out scenario, as it removes the toys/setup you'd normally have and forces you to make a quick decision with less than optimal conditions. Makes you realise decision making + skills > tools.
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Aug 17, 2017 12:22:02 GMT 10
If you have a subfloor space or similar you can access and hide in, do it. If 5 people spent 10 minutes clearing out a house, they're not doing a good job. It's a smash and grab. Prepare to bug out if hiding places do not exist.
30 armed vs 2 armed is suicide, especially after they have already demonstrated means and intent to kill. 30 minutes of prep time is not going to give you enough of a dig in to fight off 10 to 1 odds. If you think otherwise, you've watched Home Alone too many times, or your house is already a death trap.
If some supplies have not been packed for bugging out, you've already made a very grave mistake.
Improvise incendiaries and smoke making devices from household goods (should have already prepared some on standby prior this even occurring). Firearms should be considered to fight a rear guard action rather than offensively. If you can access the rear of the adjacent property with relative safety, firebomb it before leaving as a distraction. Throw incendiaries to cover your exit. If sighted, use heavy fire to suppress and try to convince them there are more armed people than there actually is. Doesn't matter how many bullets you have left if you're dead.
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on May 8, 2017 0:28:19 GMT 10
Tilt-up construction is not my favourite is quality control can be an issue.
That said, it can totally be done given the right design and construction. As the connections for tilt-ups are usually pinned, you want to make sure the panels are arranged in a fashion to provide adequate bracing to perpendicular panels, otherwise you can end up literally building them like a house of cards.
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on May 2, 2017 12:15:21 GMT 10
The parents-in-law had to wait quite a long time until after the quakes for settlement, I believe.
Incidentally, housing prices in the surviving suburbs got a major spike after the quake.
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on May 2, 2017 12:14:16 GMT 10
Haven't had the chance to watch all of them just yet with audio, but selfsufficient has hit the nail on the head. You could use it as sacrificial formwork for placing your concrete, or strengthen it for the purpose intended. But not use them long term in their untouched form.
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on May 1, 2017 23:31:05 GMT 10
I have mates in NZ, and second hand info I know, but I understand it was fairly dicey in the immediate aftermath. To the point one of my mates gave his then wife his .223 rifle and told her to cover him while he checked a wrecked nearby corner store for food and water. The in-laws also survived for quite a while using pot belly heater for cooking, and had a portaloo for ages. They also survived for quite a while on bottled water. That said, order was largely maintained, and the NZDF was mobilised to assist with immediate repairs. So society is sometimes more resilient than we give it credit for.
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