shinester
Senior Member
China's white trash
Posts: 3,119
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Email: shiny@ausprep.org
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Post by shinester on Mar 15, 2017 20:46:23 GMT 10
.. and if you're a plumber and working at Bunnings, I suspect you're not much of a plumber.
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Post by thereth on Mar 15, 2017 21:55:31 GMT 10
.. and if you're a plumber and working at Bunnings, I suspect you're not much of a plumber. or semi retired, i know quite a few old blokes that work at Bunnings midland because they want to still work but cant work the tools like they used to
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shinester
Senior Member
China's white trash
Posts: 3,119
Likes: 3,578
Email: shiny@ausprep.org
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Post by shinester on Mar 15, 2017 22:34:30 GMT 10
Ahh... thanks for that correction, makes sense, want to keep their foot in the door for a few dollars for beers, but not commit to something entirely.
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Post by Peter on Mar 15, 2017 22:41:30 GMT 10
I'm not plumber, but I know a fair bit about piping water around the place and about building design...
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Post by Paul on Mar 15, 2017 23:26:01 GMT 10
Same as Pete, Im not a plumber but I have done my fare share, what ideas do you have in mind to do with the shipping container.
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Post by Paul on Mar 16, 2017 9:02:03 GMT 10
Will you be running a pump or just gravity feeding. If the water pressure is good it should be fine I think, I would connected it all up on the ground and see if you are happy with what flow you get.
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Post by Peter on Mar 16, 2017 9:12:07 GMT 10
I agree with Paul on that - if it's gravity fed. Another tip is to use 2x 45 bends instead of 1x 90 bend wherever possible as it allows for better flow.
Can I ask why you're changing pipe size so much?
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Post by graynomad on Mar 16, 2017 22:11:48 GMT 10
I'm using a 1000l IBC tank with a 25mm outlet into a 20mm water pipe which then goes into a 25mm pump inlet/outlet Why this reduction when both ends are 25mm? reduces again to 20mm, then the line for hot water reduces down further to about 15mm for the HWS before returning to 20mm. Why does a reduction for the HWS affect the rest of the system, T off the "mains" for the HWS.
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Post by doomsdayprepper4570 on Mar 22, 2017 19:36:31 GMT 10
With a pump reduced pipe sizes will not really effect the amount of water/pressure you get to your shower head. But as Rob said why reduce the pipes at all if the start and finish are the same diameter.
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Post by Peter on Mar 22, 2017 20:16:12 GMT 10
If you end up using the place as a retreat (ie an actual post-crunch retreat) will you still only flush under 10 times a month?
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Post by doomsdayprepper4570 on Mar 23, 2017 15:11:49 GMT 10
That pump will most likely die! Made in china and junk from experience. Buy a davey and it will last 20-30 years with low usage. I have had one chinese pump die and my mate has had 3 die all running off an inverter. Seriously, you can not rely on them. You do not need hydrascan or the like, just a pressure tank davey model which costs between $400 - $500 and peace of mind.
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Post by Peter on Mar 23, 2017 18:23:38 GMT 10
That pump will most likely die! Made in china and junk from experience. Buy a davey and it will last 20-30 years with low usage. I have had one chinese pump die and my mate has had 3 die all running off an inverter. Seriously, you can not rely on them. You do not need hydrascan or the like, just a pressure tank davey model which costs between $400 - $500 and peace of mind. Davey are crap these days, and their service is pathetic. I'd stick with Pentair (Onga) myself.
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Post by doomsdayprepper4570 on Mar 24, 2017 5:51:20 GMT 10
As I said keep away from anything with a micro chip board (aka hydroscan), all that is needed is a pressure tank, pressure trip switch. And no not everything is made in a 3rd world country! You just have to pay a lot more for that is not. Even makita electric tools have two grades, one made in japan (dearer) and the made in china grade (cheaper). If you do not like davey go for a grundfos, but are dearer.
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Post by gernsworthy on Apr 24, 2017 18:16:10 GMT 10
Hi im a licenced plumber. If you havnt finished your bathroom and need advice let me know. The only problwm with the push fit water system is that it tends to blow the seals alot. Make sure you have a ball valve after the pump. Turn the system off after use. This will ensure you dont get a blow out and your pump will continue to run untill it burns itself out.
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token
VIP Member
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Post by token on Apr 24, 2017 19:49:56 GMT 10
I'm not plumber, but I know a fair bit about piping water around the place and about building design... Same. Just had a read, not sure how far your in and some good thoughts so far, here's mine. I think your running an instant gas hot water system, correct me if im wrong, but two things will have them running intermittent (on/off/on/off and youll freeze), that is, water flow in, and gas supply in. Make sure youve got good gas sup in, 20mm copper all the way, and a good regulator, and if your running 9kg bottles of lpg rather than 45's, when they get low they can cause intermittent. Hot water can generally find its way regardless of pressure, so long as it has good flow in. Just on the septic, be aware, health regs can be dire straights compared to building regs, so if you get done on septic that's not permitted and leaking, good luck! Where you can make a difference is ensuring that all waste is locked up and can be pumped out and transported off the property, that way, its not going into the ground etc for them to hit the roof. I have a mate with un-permitted septics on his block, more than one. He has his own pump to pump them out, and dont ask the rest. Hope that helps and all the best with the retreat mate.
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Post by gernsworthy on Apr 24, 2017 20:41:13 GMT 10
A ball valve after the pumps is only if your wanting to turn the system on and off. It will also help if you wish to reconfigure at a later date. If you are draining all of the system is probably not an issue. If ypu do habe a blow out it will prevent you from loosing all of your water. As for the hot water let me know the unit, lenth in between gas bottle and unit. I can calculate pipe size. If you are running a camp style battery operated unit try to keep the water outlet distance to a minimum.
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Post by gernsworthy on Apr 24, 2017 20:42:46 GMT 10
Sorry for the spelling didnt read it first
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token
VIP Member
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Post by token on Apr 24, 2017 21:11:02 GMT 10
I run a tablet these days and can't figure out how to post pics using it, so a verbal picture will have to do. 1000l tank on a stand approx 5ft high. From tank runs 25mm pipe to pump situated directly under stand. Pump outlet is 20mm plastic plumbing pipe with rigid core. All fittings after pump outlet are push in until they meet toilet, shower and vanity connections. Hws is less than 1m from pump outlet. Gas bottle connects directly to hws with standard gas hose and regulator. All the pipes will terminate within 2m of pump. The hws is a camp style unit that takes 2 d cell batteries. Frost, consider posting your pics on some external like this: postimage.org/auth.phpBy doing so, if ever you want to pull your pics from everywhere you posted the direct links externally, you are afforded a measure (yer right, as what goes online stays online) of convenience by pulling your pics from this site and every link then should not (technically) work. As for the HW unit, ive run one of those things frost, piece of rubbish to some degree, and id recommend the standard house instant gas HW system over it, unless, you have the unit mounted inside, right where you will use it (ie: shower) and can turn the temp on and off and adjust it accordingly, and this i strongly recommend. They can go in and out of temp, so adjustment is needed to maintain the heat you want. You can vent the thing outside if you cut into your steel wall easy enough. I fitted mine inside of an old elec box with a lock on it outside (mistake) and 20ft of gas piping from bottle to unit (mistake). I ran it with a sureflo 12volt pump, no issues with the sureflo that i found, great pump, but consider using a pressure chamber to have some surplus of water available so the pump doesnt go in and out and has some relief. Batteries were a pain also, found they didnt fire the clicker at times, consider doctoring it, and if you dont, regularly check the battery compartment for corrosion.
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Post by gernsworthy on Apr 24, 2017 21:45:00 GMT 10
Sounds good. You should have no problems. Good batteries do make the world of difference. I installed alot of these units in a caravan park just outside of melbourne. In winter the bottles were to cold for the gas to be released correctly. We fixed this problem with the use of a heat pad from the beer brewing suppliers. Its around twenty dollars and worked a treat. Just make sure your connections are sound. Test with soapy water. No bubbles no troubles. Dont know much on how much power they draw as it was all plugged into mains
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gasman
Senior Member
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Post by gasman on Apr 25, 2017 8:00:28 GMT 10
Damn u frost! If you've learnt how to post photos that means I'm going to have to learn😜
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