|
|
Post by graynomad on May 8, 2017 18:37:14 GMT 10
... Ive got a small come along winch the same, but way too much work imo Gray. You have to have the tie off point or make it, connect everything up and so on, then, get the spike out of the ground etc when your finished. Today i purchased a peavey for $150 and freight at $30 or so, it was the cheaper of the ones ive seen so hope its ok, ill update as to how it goes. True, I've only done this 2-3 times as most logs I can roll over myself, like I said I really need to get a cant hook. Where did you buy the peavey, at that price maybe I should get one. |
|
|
|
Post by graynomad on May 8, 2017 18:38:29 GMT 10
I reckon a 50bmg would turn a big log into instant firewood. I've used one to turn concrete back into powder (thanks Gasman)  Ha ha, same principle but you would get tinder and kindling, not firewood. |
|
token
VIP Member
Posts: 766 
Likes: 575
|
Post by token on May 9, 2017 8:22:04 GMT 10
... Ive got a small come along winch the same, but way too much work imo Gray. You have to have the tie off point or make it, connect everything up and so on, then, get the spike out of the ground etc when your finished. Today i purchased a peavey for $150 and freight at $30 or so, it was the cheaper of the ones ive seen so hope its ok, ill update as to how it goes. True, I've only done this 2-3 times as most logs I can roll over myself, like I said I really need to get a cant hook. Where did you buy the peavey, at that price maybe I should get one. Check out the store as he has other's, i got the 1.7m as for some reason it was cheaper than the 1.4m and i could do with the extra leverage on some of these logs. Again, might be best to wait till i can say it works alright. Freight varies depending on where you are too, i paid $25.59 as it was set on the add. www.ebay.com.au/itm/Peavey-Hook-Log-Roller-Cant-Logging-Timber-Fire-Wood-Firewood-Australian-1-7m-/132185050710?hash=item1ec6d7ce56:g:5N4AAOSwAYtWQWfb |
|
token
VIP Member
Posts: 766
Likes: 575
|
Post by token on May 9, 2017 8:37:28 GMT 10
Just adding to the thread for anyone interested in cutting concrete, bricks or zombies with a chainsaw for gun ports, windows, drainage pipes, check this out.
|
|
|
|
Post by Peter on May 10, 2017 8:40:02 GMT 10
...and for removing bollards. There are an increasing number of these en route to my BOLs.
I almost want to build something in the wrong place just so I have an excuse to buy one...
|
|
grumble
Senior Member
Posts: 457
Likes: 778
|
Post by grumble on May 10, 2017 16:20:33 GMT 10
token awesome thread BTW. Thanks for starting it. No worries, tbh im keen to continue my learning in this field myself. The tech is changing all the time, the scenarios like you added about tree roots is important and i agree with that. Id also add that apparently cutting Palm Trees destroys a chainsaw as well, so it might pay (or not lol) to get a cheapy for those type of one off jobs. Regarding the scenario, the cheapy, as long as it hasnt been overworked and starts on time might do to get the old telegraph pole out of the way too. I know an old arborist fella and he told me never to buy the specialized chain oil, rather get the supermarket 5ltr cheapest motor oil you can. The reason he said is that their is an additive in the chain oil which causes it to stick and be viscous but when dropping trees and or going near dirt, this oil holds dirt and it becomes like a small grinder on your bar, cog and chain. He said the cheap motor oil flicks off and its all you need. He has had years in the industry as an old fella so i respect him, but i havent dont it yet. Interesting thoughts though, and something that preppers can consider if the end of the world happens and they cant find bar oil, just use clean motor oil. It might also be useful to run old filtered car oil, dunno. Honestly I have talked to guys in forestry and they all have said the same thing about using motor oil vs chain oil
Using motor oil is a fools folly in terms of saving money because over time what you save in using cheap motor oil you end up spending more in chains and bars because they run to dry and over heat no matter what you do the oil flicks off to quickly so you end up having to pump heaps of oil on to keep them lubed up also never use old used motor oil as that stuff will kill your chain and bar in no time
Now this is the information I have recived from guys that fall timber day in day out and make a living from harvesting timber on a professional level so I would hope they have their facts right
on a side note you can use veggie oil as well or olive oil in fact in Europe they use veggie oil with the tacky stuff added to it as hey flinging oil everywhere is just not cool anymore
www.jonsered.com/int/chainsaws/chainsaw-accessories/lubricants/chain-oil/vegetable-based-chain-oil/
www.stihl.com/stihl-bio-plus-chain-and-bar-oil.aspx
www.husqvarna.com/asia/accessories/other-accessories/lubricants/husqvarna-saw-chain-oil,-vegoil/
as you can see all the big boys have it now but honestly I pay the money and use proper bar oil but here is the kicker if you have an older saw a survivor from the pre 90's then you can run dirty oil sump oil in it due to the design of them but I still wouldn't just cause hey you take the stuff out of your engine cause its no good for your big end why would you put it in your saw
In a fair play type deal though if you don't use your saw day in day out then I don't think it will make all that greater difference in bar life and chain life I personally have used motor oil and veggie oil and decided to go back to bar oil simply because veggie oil was pouring out and when I used motor oil my chain and bar was getting hotter compared to normal
|
|
grumble
Senior Member
Posts: 457
Likes: 778
|
Post by grumble on May 10, 2017 16:22:43 GMT 10
Today i had some time to use the tungsten chain on the 461. First log was a good size on the ground that i need a cant hook or peavey to move but thought id give it a go cutting the log most of the way through until she started to pinch a touch on the bar and chain and then pull out and cut again. Well the tungsten chain was making butter of this hard gum and i was loving it.... I got about 10 good cuts in and then the on one cut through it wasnt going through as well, so i stood up and looked at the other side where the tip of the bar was poking through and..... There was a good fist sized quartz rock with a really nice smoothed area where the tungsten chain had tried cutting through it... after that the tungsten chain might as well be another stick trying to hit its way through the log..... $160 for 10 cuts....i walked around rest of the arvo with my head down not talking to anyone kicking stones and dust up lol. So now i have to find out if i cant sharpen this thing...if.. That really unfortunate mate darn things cost about $20 to $30 to get sharpened
|
|
|
|
Post by graynomad on May 10, 2017 18:27:18 GMT 10
I use tungsten chains and love them. I'm only on my 2nd one so haven't had a lot of experience with them but so far I find that by the time they need sharpening they have been used so long they have stretched so far you run out of adjustment, so if you add the cost of a link removal and a sharpen it's almost worth just buying a new one.
NOTE: The price for chains (and most other stuff) for Stihl (saws and brushcutters) has dived recently, it seems that they decided they have to compete with the cheaper brands.
|
|
token
VIP Member
Posts: 766
Likes: 575
|
Post by token on May 10, 2017 18:46:26 GMT 10
Today i had some time to use the tungsten chain on the 461. First log was a good size on the ground that i need a cant hook or peavey to move but thought id give it a go cutting the log most of the way through until she started to pinch a touch on the bar and chain and then pull out and cut again. Well the tungsten chain was making butter of this hard gum and i was loving it.... I got about 10 good cuts in and then the on one cut through it wasnt going through as well, so i stood up and looked at the other side where the tip of the bar was poking through and..... There was a good fist sized quartz rock with a really nice smoothed area where the tungsten chain had tried cutting through it... after that the tungsten chain might as well be another stick trying to hit its way through the log..... $160 for 10 cuts....i walked around rest of the arvo with my head down not talking to anyone kicking stones and dust up lol. So now i have to find out if i cant sharpen this thing...if.. That really unfortunate mate darn things cost about $20 to $30 to get sharpened
Awww, thanks Grumbs, yes it was a hard lesson learned however, im up for the challenge now of working out how to sharpen it to see if ultimately its worth the cost. I need to find a continuous diamond wheel for my elec chainsaw sharpener. The arbor (hole in the middle of the disc was 24mm, and industry standard is 22mm, so i ended up grinding back the plastic wheel that the blade affixes too to fit 22mm. Now i have to find a 110mm, hopefully 3-4mm thickness with a 22mm arbor. The thing is, its good that all this is happening now as its important to me to obtain self sufficiency in every area. |
|
gasman
Senior Member
Posts: 466
Likes: 607
|
Post by gasman on May 10, 2017 21:01:23 GMT 10
Our last field days and chainsaw evening had chains at 3-4 for $100
Good deal- cheaper if you buy by the roll and make it yoursef(not hard)
Sharpening at a dealer costs $8-16
Tungsten much more
Doesn't make sense to me
Learn how to do it yourself and buy a heap
|
|
token
VIP Member
Posts: 766
Likes: 575
|
Post by token on May 11, 2017 19:27:16 GMT 10
Our last field days and chainsaw evening had chains at 3-4 for $100 Good deal- cheaper if you buy by the roll and make it yoursef(not hard) Sharpening at a dealer costs $8-16 Tungsten much more Doesn't make sense to me Learn how to do it yourself and buy a heap I would like to get the pressing dyes for buying a roll and chain and assembling my own tbh as well,...maybe one day. At the moment though, i sharpen my own, got burnt once when i took in a chain for repair and the guy hacked a heap of meat off it and charged me $40!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I then bought a new chain for $44. That was a few years back now, and i wised up fast! Im yet to check out purchasing the cheap chinese chains to see how they go. |
|
token
VIP Member
Posts: 766
Likes: 575
|
Post by token on May 12, 2017 20:10:41 GMT 10
Took receipt of my peavey hook today and gave it a whirl at turning a log, wow! how easy does this thing make the job!
No regrets, but if anyone has a good piece of pipe steel or a jimmy bar for pounding out rocks and clay soil for post holes or plants, i daresay you could weld a piece onto the thing and bolt in a hook and then its just a piece at the tip for gripping. Very simple design, and makes logging work or moving a log around sooo much easier.
If you had two of them, and another set of hands, i daresay you could move into place some very large logs for a protection, cover, or 'roll the log on the enemy' systems for your BOL too. Also, you could use these to roll a large log on ramps onto a trailer for transport. Handy tool and i have welcomed it into my end of the world tool shed.
Other than that, today i have been experimenting with degree angle, ive been cutting well at 27deg but wanted to try 21 deg. In a way the cut seems slower, but im hoping it will last longer, but i need more time yet to continue honing my thoughts in this area. Certainly got enough timber to cut to find out one way or the other.
|
|
token
VIP Member
Posts: 766
Likes: 575
|
Post by token on May 19, 2017 16:52:54 GMT 10
For those who are interested, here is a pic of my peavey hook at 1.7mtrs long. The thing was a time and energy saver in rolling logs over for finishing cut so as to keep you bar and chain out of the dirt and stones. I wouldnt be without one now. I do need a cant hook though for smaller stuff as the peavey isnt suitable for that. I think this design can be made quite simply if anyone welds and is wanting to save money, but i also think that the design could be made better, especially where the hook end on the piveting piece is as it needs more bite to get through heavy bark.  |
|
|
|
Post by graynomad on May 20, 2017 8:33:35 GMT 10
I think I will still make my own, and yes when I researched this one I thought the spikes may not be enough, I'll use high-tensile bolts ground down to a sharp point I think.
|
|
token
VIP Member
Posts: 766
Likes: 575
|
Post by token on May 20, 2017 8:49:34 GMT 10
I think I will still make my own, and yes when I researched this one I thought the spikes may not be enough, I'll use high-tensile bolts ground down to a sharp point I think. Yer great, they seem easy enough, it would be great to see the pics of how you went and if it works well. Strength should be a major issue, on some of my logs i could feel that i would bend the thing if i pushed it, but they were quite large. |
|
