feralemma
Senior Member
Posts: 398
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Post by feralemma on Jul 24, 2018 10:11:00 GMT 10
You have the garden I aspire to have....if I can stop killing anything except bougainvilleas 😂
I have a question about the hay/straw around your citrus trees. I thought they got rot if you put vegetable matter around the trunks? Or is it not right up to the trunk? Also, what do you use to get rid of weeds? I've got garden beds full of mostly oats at the moment and don't have time to weed by hand....but don't want to use a herbicide around the house. Cheers ☺
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Post by spinifex on Jul 24, 2018 18:51:49 GMT 10
Thanks Feralemma,
Try growing mint and asparagus. They are basically weeds!
The hay mulch is actually under my stonefruit trees. That's a very verdant plum tree that looks like a citrus and it yields about 40kg of fruit per year. And yes, I do keep much away from the trunks - about 20cm.
Three main options for weeds: I do spray the fence-line and 'paths' in the garden with roundup twice a year. I will also prepare a bed with fertiliser and irrigation to get all the weeds to germinate and then spray the bed a day or two before sowing/planting out when weeds are all still tiny seedlings.
I have also used a gas blowtorch to flame-weed prepared beds before sowing/planting.
I tried weed mat for a year but found it created perfect refuge for slugs and earwigs that hammered the hell out of my crops. In other areas it might work well. It certainly did out in my central australian (desert conditions) market gardens. I don't use it here anymore.
Once crops are up and running I only hand weed. The trick is to get the crop canopy nice and lush as quickly as possible to shade out the weed seedlings that try and come up later. Some crops with sparse canopies like onions don't work in that way ... but many others do.
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Post by Peter on Jul 24, 2018 21:36:12 GMT 10
spinifex I must express my appreciation for your contributions to this forum - not only this thread, but many others as well. Thank you so much for sharing from your wealth of knowledge.
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Post by SA Hunter on Jul 24, 2018 23:39:33 GMT 10
spinifex I must express my appreciation for your contributions to this forum - not only this thread, but many others as well. Thank you so much for sharing from your wealth of knowledge. Ditto.
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Post by spinifex on Jul 25, 2018 18:30:18 GMT 10
Thank you Pete and SA Hunter,
I am very pleased to know people here value my stuff.
It's really good to exchange ideas and experiences with everyone here and I take aboard plenty of ideas from others with different skill sets.
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Post by spinifex on Jul 28, 2018 13:14:50 GMT 10
Spent a couple of hours sorting out my lime tree today. 1. Before - bit weedy hey? The whole tree is just a 6 foot sphere so I can reach all the fruit without a ladder or any other form of messing about. Keeping the canopy small also helps with reducing the amount of irrigation required thru the summer. 2. Graded harvest - the big square 20L bucket is 'marmalade grade', the blue box is 'premium' (for salad dressing and Asian dishes) they mostly have a short bit of stem still attached to maximise shelf life. The other two containers are 'intermediate grade'. They'll be distributed out to friends and family and such. They're good but will only have a shelf life of a few weeks tops. There is still about a shoe box full of fruit left on the tree as well after harvest. 3. My citrus fertiliser factory! (He's also a lot of tasty meat in a dire situation.) I only collect and used the well composted stuff that the chickens have been working over for a few months. 4. After ... with a fresh layer of compost applied. The wire netting stops the chickens from spreading the compost from where I want it ... to the entire surrounding area. 5. Assessing fruit for shelf life - longer term keeping. (Click to enlage) From left (looking at the three fruit in a row with stem attachment showing) : a good fruit straight off the tree with pale stem attachment. Next is a good fruit that has been off the tree for a week or so. The one on the right is a fruit that is showing advanced signs of aging - stem attachment very dark and has 'wrinkles' radiating out from it: no shelf life left in that one.
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feralemma
Senior Member
Posts: 398
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Post by feralemma on Jul 30, 2018 0:06:46 GMT 10
Thanks Feralemma, Try growing mint and asparagus. Sadly I've killed many mint plants 😂 it's just too hot and dry here in summer. I'd assume asparagus would be the same. I have grown tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, turnips and a few other things successfully I just manage to kill most things off, or the heat does. Weeds however seem to grow quite well!
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paranoia
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Posts: 1,098
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Email: para@ausprep.org
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Post by paranoia on Aug 1, 2018 22:19:55 GMT 10
Inspiring thread spinifex! Great to see such productivity...
I'm ashamed to admit I let things fall fallow over summer due to being busy and having ridiculously dry weather... I even had a row of 3-4 year old acacias (the beginnings of a wind break for a spot I'm trying to cultivate) completely fall over and die.
Seems like you've got some pretty serious wind breaks around do you dig that iron/poly into the ground for pests also or is it mostly for wind?
I'm jealous of your favas! Mine never make it even close to that high...
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Post by spinifex on Aug 2, 2018 19:04:25 GMT 10
Thanks Paranoia. (Also: Good to see you here ) Poly sheets are just for wind break that still lets the sunlight thru. A worthwhile investment for sure. I struggled thru this summer/Autumn ... and winter ... too. We have major hassles with wood borers attacking native trees here and when its dry like it has been wattles and gum trees succumb to the damage in a big way. Due to injury I've not done much in my 'outdoor' vegetable patch ... just putting my limited ability into the greenhouse as the productivity per unit of effort is much higher.
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Post by SA Hunter on Aug 2, 2018 19:30:41 GMT 10
Spent a couple of hours sorting out my lime tree today. 1. Before - bit weedy hey? The whole tree is just a 6 foot sphere so I can reach all the fruit without a ladder or any other form of messing about. Keeping the canopy small also helps with reducing the amount of irrigation required thru the summer. 2. Graded harvest - the big square 20L bucket is 'marmalade grade', the blue box is 'premium' (for salad dressing and Asian dishes) they mostly have a short bit of stem still attached to maximise shelf life. The other two containers are 'intermediate grade'. They'll be distributed out to friends and family and such. They're good but will only have a shelf life of a few weeks tops. There is still about a shoe box full of fruit left on the tree as well after harvest. 3. My citrus fertiliser factory! (He's also a lot of tasty meat in a dire situation.) I only collect and used the well composted stuff that the chickens have been working over for a few months. 4. After ... with a fresh layer of compost applied. The wire netting stops the chickens from spreading the compost from where I want it ... to the entire surrounding area. 5. Assessing fruit for shelf life - longer term keeping. (Click to enlage) From left (looking at the three fruit in a row with stem attachment showing) : a good fruit straight off the tree with pale stem attachment. Next is a good fruit that has been off the tree for a week or so. The one on the right is a fruit that is showing advanced signs of aging - stem attachment very dark and has 'wrinkles' radiating out from it: no shelf life left in that one. I can attest to the quality of the so called "intermediate" quality limes - better than anything Coles or Woolies sell! Thanks again spinifex!
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Post by spinifex on Aug 2, 2018 19:38:08 GMT 10
Very pleased you enjoy them.
Yeah ... the shop fruit are always picked under ripe. Even the citrus.
Wait til plum season ... I got the best plum tree ever. Huge black fleshed things, 'melting flesh' with unbelievable taste. Just a battle to keep the fruit on it through the hot wind days. Unfortunately they just do not preserve or even sauce very well at all. Thinking about salting some this summer to see what that does.
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Post by Peter on Aug 2, 2018 19:48:59 GMT 10
Wait til plum season ... I got the best plum tree ever. Again, I'm envious. I do enjoy getting all manner of fruit from Donnybrook whenever possible, but that's a 2 hour drive for me. There's a particular German plum variety called Zwetschge - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zwetschge - it's used to make Zwetschgenkuchen - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zwetschgenkuchen - one of the very few desserts I enjoy. And I *really* love this one. Unfortunately I've not been able to find the same flavour in any local plums I've tried.
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Post by SA Hunter on Aug 2, 2018 20:53:20 GMT 10
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Post by Peter on Aug 2, 2018 21:42:06 GMT 10
That's awesome - thanks a bunch.
I'll keep an eye out for when they're in stock, and if getting them into WA is possible.
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Post by spinifex on Aug 4, 2018 14:55:50 GMT 10
Some ideas and experiences regarding drip irrigation systems:From Left: 1. Drip irrigation back in the GH. Main trunk 19mm. I use 4mm tube off that with a dripper at the end. This gives better flexibility with placing water exactly where I want it to best serve the plants. 2. This is the 'end of the line' dripper taken apart. Note lots of calcium scale build up. But this is why I use drippers that can be taken apart and cleaned. 3. I don't use end plugs on my drip lines. I use a simple home made wire clip to hold it kinked. Why? So I can regularly and easily open up the end of the line and flush it to remove calcium scale and sediment that builds up in them reducing the problem in the previous picture. It's also saves a dollar. 4. My acid flushing unit. Don't use it anymore but I used to use it once a year back when I used to use 6mm dripline with integral (non removable) drippers. The fitting in the black circle used to have a standard hose snap-on fitting to connect a garden hose. There is 19mm tube attached to the bung-hole at the base of the drum and I used to plug several 6mm lines (One still visible) into that 19mm tube at once, quarter fill the drum with diluted pool acid, screw the lid on to make it pressure tight and then pressurise the drum by turning on the garden hose for about 10 seconds. That then pushes the acid solution down the drip lines and dissolves away the scale that would slowly build up and block them. Just leave it sit for half an hour to do its work. Release any remaining pressure out of the drum lid ... then pour the remaining acid into a bucket and repeat the process with fresh water to flush acid out of the lines ready for re-installation back in the garden. Lotsa work ... so I changed my setup ... and got rid of all the the 6mm netafim driplines lines. (See next post) 5. I hate plastic ratchet clips on irrigation systems. I am replacing them with twitched wire. Saves 90 cents or so on each replacement and the wire will last waaaaay longer and reduce costly leaks.
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Post by spinifex on Aug 4, 2018 15:22:29 GMT 10
Click to enlarge. 1. My redundant 6mm irrigation lines with in-built drippers. Really easy to install and really hard to maintain to keep them running well. Now I use 19mm lines with individual maintainable drippers punched externally on to it. Either directly (outside) or via 4mm tube extensions (Green House) 2. My all time favorite and easy to use irrigation controller unit. In this case attached directly to a tap but they can be installed anywhere within an irrigation system with just a few basic fittings. Note the hard-core pressure reducer (with the yellow band). Water pressure needs to be kept within the operating limits of the controller or they don't function properly. These run on a 9 volt square battery like in a smoke alarm. A battery can last for a couple of years. Easy as to program as it is a single station control unit. I find 'hi tech' multi station units a total pain in the rear for vegetable gardens. I want my entire irrigation system to go off at once (and I have the flow rate to sustain that) and to water different crops in different ways I change the drip lines between 2L per Hour and 4L per hour. Each line has its own tap so I can switch off each line as it's crop is harvested. That bent piece of copper pipe laying on the sleeper is what I use to 'jet' star pickets and/or fence posts out of the ground with ease. 3. Close up of the face of the controller... easy to use. 4. Planting out my seeds (finally!) into tubes prepared a while ago. I use a really high tech stick to do it just right. I gentle wiggle the sharper (pale) end in a circular motion to make a nice 5-7mm deep opening, drop in a pair of seeds, gentle tamp the seeds down with the blunt end of the stick, and with a light touch of fingers smudge the loose soil back into the hole. I do not just push the stick into the soil to make a hole for the seed ... because that makes a compacted layer directly below the seed which gets in the way of instant, deep root growth as the seed germinates. (Sometimes a seedling will push itself out of the ground due to that sort of compaction.) They get a very light watering every day and I put a layer of water 10mm deep in the base of the tray each morning. By the following morning it is gone thru evaporation and being soaked up by the tubes. All going well they'll be ready to plant out in the Green House in the first week of September. Oh ... and gotta watch the cats. They WILL sleep on the seed tray if it takes their fancy. Think I'll prop a sheet of glass over them!
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Post by spinifex on Aug 8, 2018 13:55:20 GMT 10
The planter box coriander crop at maximum foliage. It's now just starting to put up flower stalks; which I'm cutting off (as soon as I see them) for the next 4 weeks to extend the season for usable leaf. For those with a keen eye ... spot the tomato plant in there!
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Post by SA Hunter on Aug 9, 2018 0:19:42 GMT 10
The planter box coriander crop at maximum foliage. It's now just starting to put up flower stalks; which I'm cutting off (as soon as I see them) for the next 4 weeks to extend the season for usable leaf. For those with a keen eye ... spot the tomato plant in there! Found! I am truly envious!
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fei
Senior Member
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Post by fei on Sept 5, 2018 16:50:24 GMT 10
The planter box coriander crop at maximum foliage. It's now just starting to put up flower stalks; which I'm cutting off (as soon as I see them) for the next 4 weeks to extend the season for usable leaf. For those with a keen eye ... spot the tomato plant in there! I have a half dozen tomato plants growing in pots on my balcony. One in particular keeps getting yellow leaves and looking like its about to die, but bounces back if I leave it alone for a few days. Would yellow foliage and sicklyness be due to over-watering? (I was pissed, as this plant has had heaps of flowers but they inevitably drop off when the plant gets sickly)
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Post by spinifex on Sept 5, 2018 18:19:48 GMT 10
Hmmm. Possibly. If you can post a few pics I could be more precise.
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