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Post by doglovingjim on Feb 7, 2018 15:10:50 GMT 10
Been planning on procuring some heirloom seeds (strawberries or tomatoes, which would you think is better?) and growing them from scratch in little containers stored inside a green-house box, so any advice relating to giving them the best chance of survival (where should I position them, in the sun-light? etc etc) would be extremely welcome. At the moment they have to be kept in containers until I secure a more permanent residence.
Oh right, and this is my first post. I'm DoglovingJim and pleased to hear from you, prepping has always been a thing I had in the back of my mind and I geared my life somewhat towards being prepared but now I want to start putting some of my ideas in practice.
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paranoia
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Post by paranoia on Feb 7, 2018 16:01:36 GMT 10
Welcome to the forum, Jim.
A good start would be to specify where you're from. All gardening advice is highly localised and seasonal so impossible to give any advice as to which would be better or if they should be in sun or shade without knowing your climate.
If you're new to gardening (climate dependent) I'd start with tomatoes, specifically cherry tomatoes... They'll be more forgiving than strawberries and don't require such a high organic/fungal content in the soil to be successful and grow in more climates.
Container gardening can be fun but is a lot of work. Need to keep up that water... I'd also suggest a reservoir/self watering pot so it's a bit more forgiving for watering requirements.
Also best way to learn is to just get started. There will be many failures but that's how we learn and best to get that out the way whilst we're not relying on the food to survive.
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Post by SA Hunter on Feb 7, 2018 19:39:32 GMT 10
G'day Jim
This year I tried container vegetable growing fairly seriously - I've always grown silver beet in containers ( 1 x pot ), and this year I tried tomatoes ( cherry & Black Russians ), Cucumbers, Capsicum, carrots, radish, lettuce, strawberries & Chilli, as well as an assortment of herbs.
No probs with the radish & carrots, cucumbers were great, but as para mentioned, LOTS of water is needed, compost is a must.Tomatoes were so so - cherry ones worked better. Lettuce was ok, but thinning out is a must. Strawberries 10/10 for taste & sweetness, though they are not in full sun. Chilli worked great. Herbs are a given, any ones will work.
I have a few fig trees in pots, never had fruit on them, though the pots are quite large. Also have Kaffir Lime & Thai Eggplants in a pot - no fruit this year.
I'm now experimenting with sweet potato & normal spuds, just to see how it goes.
Welcome to Ausprep.
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Post by Peter on Feb 7, 2018 20:05:07 GMT 10
Welcome Jim.
I've been trying various ways of container gardening, but as mentioned above watering is a major PITA. I'm in Perth, and we get very dry summers (although we haven't had a hot summer in a couple of years).
To add an element to the discussion: I'm looking at burying my pots in the ground; this should hopefully prevent them from heating up too much (therefore less evaporation), contain fertilizer/good soil better, and hopefully reduce the amount they're choked by other stuff (such as couch grass from the neighbour's place).
Thoughts?
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Post by SA Hunter on Feb 7, 2018 22:46:29 GMT 10
My pots get full sun for a few hours - before the heat of the day - usually 0800-1200hrs. I layered my soils - garden soil, then compost mix, then either cow or chook manure mix, more soil, compost mix, manure, and soil. I also added lamb manure mix for a little extra boost. Seemed to work ok, especially for the cucumbers, they loved the mix.
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Post by doglovingjim on Feb 8, 2018 20:42:41 GMT 10
Glad to see responses.
In terms of location I live in Victoria (Melbourne), how frequently would you guys suggest watering strawberries for example in containers? Do they thrive in direct sunlight or should I try to limit their exposure? When would be the best time to try and germinate the seeds to give them the best chance?
Thanks.
(Ohhh, in terms of composting, could one create good compost with grass and rotten banana skins? What are the benefits of compost, the science behind it.)
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Post by SA Hunter on Feb 8, 2018 23:31:48 GMT 10
Glad to see responses. In terms of location I live in Victoria (Melbourne), how frequently would you guys suggest watering strawberries for example in containers? Do they thrive in direct sunlight or should I try to limit their exposure? When would be the best time to try and germinate the seeds to give them the best chance? Thanks. (Ohhh, in terms of composting, could one create good compost with grass and rotten banana skins? What are the benefits of compost, the science behind it.) My strawberries are in smaller containers that you buy from Cheap as Chips (the rectangular ones). They get about 3-4 hrs of direct sunlight. I usually water them every second day. I've never grown strawberries from seed, but other seeds are either sown direct, or grown from seeds then transplanted into the containers. Compost I use a bought mixture from Bunnings, as well as grass cuttings from the lawn.
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paranoia
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Post by paranoia on Feb 8, 2018 23:37:50 GMT 10
You water plants before they dry out but not too often as they would be soggy... This is vague because there is no answer and any book/website that tells you how often to water X is wrong. A small pot in direct sun can dry out in just a few hours on a hot day. Use larger pots where possible (but not too big for what you're planting as you don't want to transplant into a massive pot 1 strawberry plant, make a good go of it for system stability)
Strawberries will do great in direct sun if they don't dry out, your lifestyle will dictate how much you give them.
Compost needs good moisture management, so long as you have a mix of dry grass and wet clippings/scraps you will make acceptable compost so long as it's turned regularly for oxygen and you add soil/clay for stability.
Organic matter is always great but what you're really getting from the compost are organisms. We'll made compost is a better environment for the generation of a good ecosystem that you can then innoculate your plants with. Think of it as a probiotic for your soil. What's often misunderstood is that bad compost is worse for your soil than no compost. If you generate anerobic conditions in your compost and it smells bad do NOT put it on your plants, you'll be setting your soil backwards.
I don't do strawberries from seed but I'm sure it'll be on the packet... I'd suggest if set on strawberries you source some runners locally that have adapted to the same climate/conditions you will be growing them under. Runners are ppanred in spring. Seedlings are fine but will often be grown from the same non-adapted seedstock. If you're set on seeds find a local organic seed grower for best chances of adapted stock, take runners in the next year from the best plants.
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Post by doglovingjim on Feb 9, 2018 13:26:26 GMT 10
Thanks, to speed things up I might get a local batch which is adapted to the climate I am in (while I wait for some heirloom seeds to get shipped). It'll be a trial run as then I can start to find out how often I should be letting them in the sunlight (as right now it's a really nice summer), by soggy what do you mean paranoia? Dry would be pretty self explanatory but with soggy do you mean that the leaves and soil are still drenched or are there any other signs that they are getting too much water?
Thanks.
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paranoia
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Post by paranoia on Feb 9, 2018 14:33:22 GMT 10
Yeah soggy is basically soil that is too wet. If soil is wet roots can't breathe and the plant will drown.
If you have a heavy soil mix (lots of clay) you need to think about adding things such as coir, pearlite, expanded clay and other various light materials to increase drainage/create air pockets.
In traditional gardening over-watering is less of a problem as the moisture content will equalise over a larger area and it has somewhere to go. In container gardening it's very easy to over water if you don't have good drainage as you're dealing with a much smaller system.
The soil should always feel moist but never wet. More frequent smaller waterings are better... You may read conflicting advice on this due to traditional gardening where this is the wrong approach.
Also you're not really interested in the top 1/2 inch of soil (which really should be mulch anyway) you need to stick your finger in 1" to know what's going on.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 9, 2018 15:40:38 GMT 10
Hi guys and welcome Jim, I grow salad veggies every year in pots....as well as a range of different mints and herbs such as rosemary, thyme etc all year round. I go straight out and buy the self watering pots that have the water well at the base of them, and would not bother even try growing stuff in a standard pot plant container.....(spoken from the experience of murdering so many plants in the past!)
Right at the moment I have a self watering pot that is about 450mm long and 150mm wide and it is supplying all my salad needs with rocket, coriander, basil.... I have an even smaller self watering pot that is about 200mm square doing nothing but growing chives which I grow for the sole purpose of making homemade potato salad.....never seem to run out either!
I highly recommend the self watering pots and if buying them is not within your means, why not go along to bunnings and have a good look at how they work and make your own... Happy Prepping
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tomatoes
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Post by tomatoes on Feb 9, 2018 18:25:23 GMT 10
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tomatoes
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Post by tomatoes on Feb 9, 2018 18:29:15 GMT 10
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tomatoes
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Post by tomatoes on Feb 9, 2018 18:38:16 GMT 10
When we grew our best strawberries they were in a garden bed with lettuce. Again, this was in a garden bed, but I’m thinking that if you were to get a big self-watering pot, it could be good to put in a mix of strawberries and lettuce. The strawberries can hide from birds etc under the lettuce, and they just seem to do well together. And lettuce do well in pots.
I believe that strawberries are originally forest plants so at least some varieties do well with some shade (that is, close to other plants - like lettuce). And in a sunny Australian climate it is often better to plant closer together to shade the soil so it doesn’t dry out as much and to provide some shade for plants.
But I’m a little further north than you.
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Post by doglovingjim on Feb 9, 2018 21:09:58 GMT 10
Thank you greatly for your advice Tomatoes (and everyone else too), these are good tips and I certainly will attempt to put them into practice.
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Post by SA Hunter on Feb 10, 2018 0:10:20 GMT 10
I'm preparing a few containers for planting - going to try sweet potato in one, as well as peas, more radish, onions, spinach, and probably more lettuce and carrots.
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Post by spinifex on Feb 11, 2018 19:23:01 GMT 10
use pots at least 30cm diameter and depth. and good soil. I use loamy, organic rich soil mined out of my chook pen (20 chooks for 13 years makes some good dirt). This is a basil plant bought from the food section of woolies. Planted it back in late december and its now 40 cm high and I've been scalping it regularly. The tomato is a volunteer that came up (they always do in chook pen soil) This pot is in afternoon shade. If I was growing tomatos etc out in full sun I'd wrap the black plastic pot in foil because the sun on black plastic is hot enough to cook the roots. I water so just a little bit of drainage comes out the bottom after 30 minutes. If you see drainage water within a minute either the soil is too porous (most potting mixes) or the soil has shrunk away from the pot and water is flowing down the gap and not through the whole root mass. Either is not ideal. I use discs of geocloth in base of pot to allow drainage and keep the soil in. Water with rainwater as tap water has dissolved salts that build up.
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Post by SA Hunter on Feb 12, 2018 16:52:03 GMT 10
use pots at least 30cm diameter and depth. and good soil. I use loamy, organic rich soil mined out of my chook pen (20 chooks for 13 years makes some good dirt). This is a basil plant bought from the food section of woolies. Planted it back in late december and its now 40 cm high and I've been scalping it regularly. The tomato is a volunteer that came up (they always do in chook pen soil) This pot is in afternoon shade. If I was growing tomatos etc out in full sun I'd wrap the black plastic pot in foil because the sun on black plastic is hot enough to cook the roots. I water so just a little bit of drainage comes out the bottom after 30 minutes. If you see drainage water within a minute either the soil is too porous (most potting mixes) or the soil has shrunk away from the pot and water is flowing down the gap and not through the whole root mass. Either is not ideal. I use discs of geocloth in base of pot to allow drainage and keep the soil in. Water with rainwater as tap water has dissolved salts that build up. Thanks - good tips there.
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Post by doglovingjim on Feb 12, 2018 20:43:20 GMT 10
I went to bunnings and got myself a bunch of tomato and chilli plants, and so it begins.
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Post by Peter on Feb 13, 2018 16:42:18 GMT 10
I bought a few heirloom tomatoes at the markets on Saturday morning, and the three I had left were overripe. They're now in potting mix in some pots in the backyard. Let's see what happens...
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