kelabar
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Post by kelabar on Sept 3, 2020 19:21:39 GMT 10
The big panels on people's roof. Anyone know what voltage the individual panels produce and the watts rating? I'm pretty sure it is more than 12V. I suspect there is a bit of variation too. Same with the ones in solar farms. Are these even bigger or higher voltage since they don't need to be lifted up onto the roof?
Looking to handle converting the output to either 12V or 24V for running devices of that voltage, as well as inverting it to 240V AC. Any tips on a DC voltage conversion?
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bug
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Post by bug on Sept 4, 2020 9:25:36 GMT 10
Each panel has a nameplate on the back which will tell you that answer. Normally they are around 2-300W each with a DC output of 0-42V (depending on the sunlight). There is a lot of voltage variation, which is what the inverter manages and converts to a steady 240V. There's no real difference between a panel that feeds a dedicated 12V DC supply from one that forms part of a rooftop 240V installation. You can't have two inverters connected to the same set of panels, so invert to whatever voltage you will use the most, then a converter from that to the other voltage.
My system is the Jinko Cheetah 60MB 300-320Watt with a Fronius 5kW inverter. Seems to be performing well and will pay for itself in about 5 years.
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shinester
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Post by shinester on Sept 5, 2020 14:11:46 GMT 10
Bug's on the money. I think I see what you're doing, take solar panel from roof and use it for backup power with batteries in an austere situation? Solar panels of roofs are usually in series [strings] with fairly high voltage [might be 400V if 10 panels] though that's not so important as you can rewire them into parallel and keep the 0-40V if you needed to. The watts 200-300W [as per bugs] give you an indication of their max output, typically summer at 12pm. A better way to think of them is they will generate 'about' 2.5x panel watts of power per day. So 200W panel will generate 500W/hr per day. This varies a lot depending on the time of year and the weather. What you'll need to use the panels on the cheap is a regulator/solar charger for 12V batteries, with MPPT [more efficient] or PVM [cheaper]. You can pick up crappy chinese ones for very little, I have 3 to be sure. Their ratings give you an idea of their capacity, 10Amp x voltage [12] give you a max output of 1200W. So if you were using 200W panels you could use up to 6. From there an inverter, preferably pure sine wave, though not essential You can get better equipment [much more expensive] that does both regulate and then invert [to 240V AC] with more features and a pretty panel that tells you things like how much charge you got from the sun etc. Taking a multimeter voltage check [see pic below] also works. Batteries If you have quality lead acid deep cycle/AGM batteries you can run them down to 50% of their rated power and get plenty of charge/discharge cycles. If you're hooking up car batteries, then keep it about 80% to keep the battery life. To work out the capacity of the battery you multiply voltage x amp/hr to give you the watt/hr. This is easier to figure out, your laptop might use 50W/hrs [electrical items have wattage ratings], so if you have a 12V AGM battery with 100amp/hrs. 12V x 100amp/hrs = 1200W/hrs. Since it's an AGM battery you have 600W of usable power, so 12hrs of using the laptop. Batteries are the weak link and most expensive part of solar power. You can get around this by using appliances when the sun is shining and the panels are charging the most and then have a small amount of power for say lights at night. Most houses use 18kwh+ of power each day, quite an investment in batteries. Personally my preps for power focused on charge torches/lights/radios/NV gear/water pumps. I consider radios critical so each has it's own small usb panel/spare batteries. A kit might look like this Two solar panels 250W, 500W total, 1250W/hr day. Battery bank - 4 x 12V 100Amp AGM batteries = 4800W/hr, 2400W/hr usable Regulator - 10Amp 12v - 2400W max [easy] Inverter - 10Amp 12v - 2400W max Multimeter Battery connection wire to join batteries, can use an aluminum bar from Bunnings [$5] with heatshrink tube [insulate it] Enough wire for the solar panels. Note that wire diameter might matter as we're working with lower voltages. --------------- If instead you're looking to have an inverter that you can use off-grid and/or charge batteries then you would want to get an electrician sort it all out.
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bug
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Post by bug on Sept 5, 2020 14:39:26 GMT 10
Kelabar, what's your goal here? Go off grid or just get solar and run some 12V stuff?
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kelabar
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Post by kelabar on Sept 5, 2020 19:15:42 GMT 10
Already got solar for camping. Waiting for the ability to attach pictures to the forum again to do a thread on really basic solar.
Plan is: (haven't done the sums yet) Some of these grid power houses have dozens of panels. Take a dozen or so panels. Give an appropriate number to a house. Connect to a vehicle battery or three. Regulate volts and amps by shading part of the panel if required. Not sure how to work it yet. End up with charged batteries without needing fuel to run engines to run alternators. Also don't need electronics. Use batteries to run lights and comms.
Need to mess around with shading uncontrolled panels to see what happens. In theory this is possible if very unwieldy. Would probably require constant or regular monitoring by someone during charging. Shrugs.
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bug
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Post by bug on Sept 6, 2020 12:54:51 GMT 10
Connecting panels straight to a battery without a regulator is a very bad idea. It's not just the voltage. You can end up 'cooking' the battery.
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kelabar
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Post by kelabar on Sept 6, 2020 13:07:37 GMT 10
Connecting panels straight to a battery without a regulator is a very bad idea. It's not just the voltage. You can end up 'cooking' the battery. Yup. Hence the constant monitoring required. Far from an ideal method but if the correct equipment isn't available, 'needs must'.
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shinester
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Post by shinester on Sept 6, 2020 16:58:28 GMT 10
From what I'm reading here, re-purpose roof panels in an Austere situation for the local farmers, adding a couple of car batteries. Bug's nailed it, voltage regulation is a real issue with 0-40V for batteries [max is about 15V]. In terms of sitting on it, with pieces of cardboard to offer shade, you'd have to have a multimeter and eyes on it, car batteries are fairly robust but .... If I had no other choice, I can think of about 5 ways [depending on available parts] of making a circuit that would do the job to some degree from salvaged electronic equipment and even that would be trial and error without online reference material. A better one and probably about the cost of new parts is .. Simple solar regulators go for $7 ea. Easily handles a couple of panels. The way you could look at it is you offer a car battery charging service in an austere situation, bring in your battery, maybe swap it for a charged one. Car batteries won't like being drained to nothing many times, though they are plentiful.
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kelabar
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Post by kelabar on Sept 6, 2020 17:41:54 GMT 10
From what I'm reading here, re-purpose roof panels in an Austere situation for the local farmers, adding a couple of car batteries. Yes, anyone can have lights then. Handy for comms too. Yes. Anyone can buy stuff and make this work. But the shops may be empty, destroyed or radioactive. What then? Use whatever is laying around somehow. In the same way it may be possible to set up comms using smartphones and routers, people can have lights and charging for small electronics. Not looking to buy enough controllers to make this happen for an entire town or neighbourhood! Also could be very profitable during bad times.
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bug
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Post by bug on Sept 7, 2020 8:33:32 GMT 10
Connecting panels straight to a battery without a regulator is a very bad idea. It's not just the voltage. You can end up 'cooking' the battery. Yup. Hence the constant monitoring required. Far from an ideal method but if the correct equipment isn't available, 'needs must'. Constant monitoring won't work. Solar panels work between 0 and 42V. They also produce a waveform that is no good for charging batteries. Batteries need to be charged at a voltage of around 2-5% above their rated voltage. That window is far too narrow to be met manually. Battery chargers are a specially designed item. The waveform, current and voltage regulation that they produce cannot be simulated manually.
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bug
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Post by bug on Sept 7, 2020 8:55:39 GMT 10
From what I'm reading here, re-purpose roof panels in an Austere situation for the local farmers, adding a couple of car batteries. Bug's nailed it, voltage regulation is a real issue with 0-40V for batteries [max is about 15V]. In terms of sitting on it, with pieces of cardboard to offer shade, you'd have to have a multimeter and eyes on it, car batteries are fairly robust but .... If I had no other choice, I can think of about 5 ways [depending on available parts] of making a circuit that would do the job to some degree from salvaged electronic equipment and even that would be trial and error without online reference material. A better one and probably about the cost of new parts is .. Simple solar regulators go for $7 ea. Easily handles a couple of panels. The way you could look at it is you offer a car battery charging service in an austere situation, bring in your battery, maybe swap it for a charged one. Car batteries won't like being drained to nothing many times, though they are plentiful. Gee those regulators have gotten cheap. As a general rule, if buying cheap, buy a spare. If someone wanted to set up a 12V supply, it's pretty cheap now. You can get second hand/obsolete panels vastly cheaper than new ones. Get onto gumtree. There are plenty selling them. They'll be from houses getting demolished, or from warehouses with panel stocks that are no longer up to scratch. But don't let that scare you. The only real thing to worry about is that with older panels you'll need double the square meterage to get the same output. Unless there's a real problem, solar panels don't die. They gradually degrade over time, but will last 40yrs or so. Generally 75% generation is guarranteed at 25yrs. The failure point is generally the inverter.
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shinester
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Post by shinester on Sept 7, 2020 9:07:28 GMT 10
Yes, anyone can have lights then. Handy for comms too. Yes. Anyone can buy stuff and make this work. But the shops may be empty, destroyed or radioactive. What then? Use whatever is laying around somehow. Sure then you better learn some basic electronics and gather a bunch of electronic circuits for voltage regulation as well as understanding what components do. It's not too tricky after the initial learning curve and 240V electronic appliances [think TV/computer etc] have lower current voltage regulation circuits already in them that can be obtained. Knowing HOW to use them, where they are in the device [connected just after the transformer and rectifier bridge] how to potentially adjust them to the right voltage is another thing, though it's not impossible, understandings circuits and then drawing up a circuit for the device would allow you to see what to adjust. You 'might' be able to adjust computer power supply regulators, they're pretty abundant. Of course this is beyond most people. Oh and don't mess with 240V!!! A few weeks-months playing with electronics and you'd get the hang of it. News to me, I thought it was just DC with changing Voltage depending on light level? I don't own an oscilloscope, so I used youtube. Maybe I'm missing something? Bug's is on it re: panel price. Go for the blue ones about 17-23% efficient, not the red ones as the red ones are half the output. Older blue ones ought to be fine. Right, I got 3 to be sure. I was thinking about getting a few more though there's bigger problems than power, such as food supply.
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bug
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Post by bug on Sept 7, 2020 9:14:10 GMT 10
Batteries are best charged with a 'pulsing' wave form rather than a flatline DC. It may still work, but will reduce battery life.
If I ever get a home battery (the economics are getting close, but not there yet), I'll be buying a bunch of old panels and a cheap inverter. As I have a 2 phase supply, I can put them on the other phase and not clash with my existing inverter. Downside is no green credits or govt subsidy. They'll be there to charge the battery, not for export. I don't have much of a 12V setup, just 2 x car batteries and 2 x 240/24V trickle chargers. Not much on 12V to run here other than air compressor, car, and a 100W 12/240V inverter to run laptops and charge phones from.
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bug
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Post by bug on Sept 7, 2020 9:32:45 GMT 10
Yeah, I was thinking about getting a 12V freezer, but they are bloody expensive and would take a pretty hefty battery + panel arrangement to run. Overall cost is up to $2000.
I'm not hugely convinced of 12V unless there's a really good reason for it (eg: mobility). 12V solar became popular when panels were small, low power and had a higher $/W ratio.
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shinester
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Post by shinester on Sept 7, 2020 9:39:12 GMT 10
Batteries are best charged with a 'pulsing' wave form rather than a flatline DC. It may still work, but will reduce battery life. A good read on some of this.
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kelabar
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Post by kelabar on Sept 7, 2020 9:43:40 GMT 10
It's not too tricky after the initial learning curve and 240V electronic appliances [think TV/computer etc] have lower current voltage regulation circuits already in them that can be obtained. Knowing HOW to use them, where they are in the device [connected just after the transformer and rectifier bridge] how to potentially adjust them to the right voltage is another thing, though it's not impossible, understandings circuits and then drawing up a circuit for the device would allow you to see what to adjust. You 'might' be able to adjust computer power supply regulators, they're pretty abundant. Of course this is beyond most people. Excellent. I look forward to your thread on how to do this!
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bug
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Post by bug on Sept 7, 2020 10:09:57 GMT 10
Batteries are best charged with a 'pulsing' wave form rather than a flatline DC. It may still work, but will reduce battery life. A good read on some of this. Good read. Interesting discussion on the pulsing there. Seems it's not a settled discussion. For the batteries I've worked with, we allowed a little gassing as there was a scheduled maintenance visit every 6 months to check cell voltage and top them up if needed. Definitely agree with the 'ripple voltage' commentary.
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shinester
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Post by shinester on Sept 7, 2020 23:01:18 GMT 10
It's not too tricky after the initial learning curve and 240V electronic appliances [think TV/computer etc] have lower current voltage regulation circuits already in them that can be obtained. Knowing HOW to use them, where they are in the device [connected just after the transformer and rectifier bridge] how to potentially adjust them to the right voltage is another thing, though it's not impossible, understandings circuits and then drawing up a circuit for the device would allow you to see what to adjust. You 'might' be able to adjust computer power supply regulators, they're pretty abundant. Of course this is beyond most people. Excellent. I look forward to your thread on how to do this! Dream on. Maybe when the locals are getting rid of stuff on the side of the road I'll rip open a power supply and show.
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doglover
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Post by doglover on Sept 9, 2020 21:35:29 GMT 10
Each panel has a nameplate on the back which will tell you that answer. Normally they are around 2-300W each with a DC output of 0-42V (depending on the sunlight). There is a lot of voltage variation, which is what the inverter manages and converts to a steady 240V. There's no real difference between a panel that feeds a dedicated 12V DC supply from one that forms part of a rooftop 240V installation. You can't have two inverters connected to the same set of panels, so invert to whatever voltage you will use the most, then a converter from that to the other voltage. My system is the Jinko Cheetah 60MB 300-320Watt with a Fronius 5kW inverter. Seems to be performing well and will pay for itself in about 5 years. We use a 120v system here in the States. Seems it would have been smart to standardize the worlds systems by now. I’ve been setting up an off grid system here. I’m actually making three separate systems, mostly for grid down scenarios. Here, and likely everywhere, it’s still much cheaper to just buy electricity. I’ve lived in hurricane prone areas and have had to use generators for extended times so the solar is a much better option for having power due to no need to keep getting fuel. My first system is 8 250w panels with dual 60amp charge regulators and a 24v 3500w inverter. I wired ten 100AH AGM batteries together in series fro a 24v system. The inverter was a cheap Chinese one and even though it works fine I just bought a much better one for my second system that was triple the price. I am making all three systems 24v with similar setups so I can swap parts if one goes down. I will likely get an extra of each part eventually for security. The first system is up and running now, powering just my chest freezer and refrigerator right now. So far my battery bank hasn’t dropped hardly at all even after cloudy days so I will add some light circuits to it before long too. Since food refrigeration was my top priority I won’t max out this system to ensure I don’t loose my frozen food preps. The second setup will run all the regular circuits in the house, just not the central heat and air or laundry. I will also be able to run a small window AC unit for the master bedroom for hot summer nights. The third system will be smaller but the same voltage and will just run the well. I bought all the solar panels allready and two of the inverters but still need a third inverter, and the batteries for two systems. It seemed like a big investment but electricity really does make our lives so much easier that I felt it was worth it.
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doglover
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Post by doglover on Sept 10, 2020 5:30:42 GMT 10
One thing I should point out here is I am an electrician but I had zero experience with solar and very limited knowledge of DC. Most of the information you need can be found online luckily but it does help to have some basic knowledge to begin with. Here in the states a major part of solar is the labor costs and the markup of the materials. With some determination and will you can do this stuff yourself though saving more than half of the costs. So far I have approximately 7,500$ in material costs in this setup. That not only includes the working system but I have the second better inverter and all the rest of the solar panels. I did save a little money on the wire as being an electrical contractor I used some scrap and took a little off one of the trucks. I’m sure that would have been another 300$. So basically I’m saying I am nowhere close to an expert, but also that you can do a system on your own if you can afford the materials.
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