paranoia
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Email: para@ausprep.org
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Post by paranoia on Oct 20, 2017 13:19:08 GMT 10
Could not agree more frost. When I was out west many of my mates worked the mines or rigs FIFO, 2-2, 3-1 even 4-1... I saw more break ups than happy marriages. Need to spend the time together or you don't really have a relationship. I'm earning WAY less than my potential at the moment only doing 25 hours a week but I get to be with my family and watch the kids grow instead of doing ridiculous levels of overtime like I was previously.
Good luck, self sufficient. Breakup is TEOTWAWKI for 2, (plus children if you have them). I hope you get through it mate.
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Post by SA Hunter on Oct 20, 2017 20:08:10 GMT 10
Looks like it is all coming into place nicely. It is good to see you place alot of emphasis on the relationship. Mine is in tatters now, waiting to see the outcome. Know exactly how you feel! |
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Post by Peter on Feb 9, 2018 20:37:14 GMT 10
You're still using the little push-mower, I see...
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Post by Joey on May 26, 2018 22:48:08 GMT 10
Looking nice there.
Are you going to put some whirly birds or other type of ventilation on the containers?
What's with the LCD screen on the ICB pods?
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Post by spinifex on May 27, 2018 10:07:04 GMT 10
That country looks very much like the hills out back of my place ...
Hope you have some good Bush fire countermeasures happening!
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Post by Joey on May 27, 2018 11:21:33 GMT 10
Ok cool, so you subscribe to the small panel trickle charge theory. those small panels can put power into a dead dead battery without "shocking" the battery like a standard battery charger would.
I believe that FB had a bushfire scare last year on the property if I remember?
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tomatoes
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Post by tomatoes on May 27, 2018 11:39:03 GMT 10
Love your bunk houses. Can you give a few more details about how you did them? Did you buy them with the windows and doors already cut and added or did you diy? What did you get done, and what did you do yourself? Was it easy to get someone to do the work?
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Post by graynomad on Jun 13, 2018 7:13:58 GMT 10
All lookin' good there FB. I had no idea the river was that close. And nice cold-bore shot, I'd be lucky to hit a dinner plate at 50 yards  Where is the door for the bunk section? On the side opposite the window and under the proposed new roof? |
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tomatoes
Senior Member
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 1,089
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Post by tomatoes on Jun 13, 2018 8:10:05 GMT 10
I have looked back at the pics of the shipping containers a few times. They look great.
Have you got any sort of insulation in the bunk house? What have you done to stop it getting unbearably hot/cold?
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Jun 19, 2018 15:47:23 GMT 10
Would gluing them directly to the inner wall reduce their effectiveness? A stud wall might help create separation from the outer leaf, and prevent thermal bridging. Could you maybe look at a low cost studs (say 64 mm steel studs) to create a cheapo wall? I haven't done the numbers though, just being an annoying back-seat-DIY-er.  Insulated foil panels definitely sound like a great idea. With metal you'd expect a lot of the heat to be radiant, so that reflective coat should be excellent! |
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Post by SA Hunter on Jun 19, 2018 17:12:07 GMT 10
For my pallet shack, was advised to use newspaper as an insulation - is this any good? I know we have to seal it all in to stop mice etc getting into it.
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Post by Peter on Jun 19, 2018 18:31:42 GMT 10
For my pallet shack, was advised to use newspaper as an insulation - is this any good? I know we have to seal it all in to stop mice etc getting into it. I was once told by an avid gardener that newspaper in the ground can attract termites. This may also be the case if used as insulation if you're in a termite-prone area. |
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Post by graynomad on Jun 19, 2018 19:40:48 GMT 10
Would gluing them directly to the inner wall reduce their effectiveness? A stud wall might help create separation from the outer leaf, and prevent thermal bridging. Could you maybe look at a low cost studs (say 64 mm steel studs) to create a cheapo wall? I haven't done the numbers though, just being an annoying back-seat-DIY-er. Insulated foil panels definitely sound like a great idea. With metal you'd expect a lot of the heat to be radiant, so that reflective coat should be excellent! From what I've read you don't want separation unless you have a vapor barrier between the steel and the inside as any air in that cavity can have moisture which can condense onto the steel. Living in QLD as I do I never bothered much about this, and for the most part we have bare steel on the inside which at times does form some moisture but as it's not trapped in a cavity it doesn't matter I think. One method is to glue closed-cell foam to the steel, but this would get pretty tedious, maybe timber battens with spray foam infill. I think you could do that and have the foam proud of the battens then run a piano wire down the timber to trim off the foam. Yes FB, I've been thinking a bit about this since we talked |
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Post by Peter on Jun 19, 2018 20:18:28 GMT 10
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Jun 19, 2018 21:32:11 GMT 10
Would gluing them directly to the inner wall reduce their effectiveness? A stud wall might help create separation from the outer leaf, and prevent thermal bridging. Could you maybe look at a low cost studs (say 64 mm steel studs) to create a cheapo wall? I haven't done the numbers though, just being an annoying back-seat-DIY-er. Insulated foil panels definitely sound like a great idea. With metal you'd expect a lot of the heat to be radiant, so that reflective coat should be excellent! From what I've read you don't want separation unless you have a vapor barrier between the steel and the inside as any air in that cavity can have moisture which can condense onto the steel. Living in QLD as I do I never bothered much about this, and for the most part we have bare steel on the inside which at times does form some moisture but as it's not trapped in a cavity it doesn't matter I think. One method is to glue closed-cell foam to the steel, but this would get pretty tedious, maybe timber battens with spray foam infill. I think you could do that and have the foam proud of the battens then run a piano wire down the timber to trim off the foam. Yes FB, I've been thinking a bit about this since we talked The reason people began constructing cavity walls in the past was actually to create a space for condensate to drain. Placing insulation directly in contact with the exterior leaf created issues with the expelling of moisture and the growth of mould. The installation of flashing at the bottom of the wall encourages the condensate to exit via weepholes. To the best of my knowledge, you would never want to have a cavity without weepholes to expel condensate. I've been thinking more on the detail Frostbite has suggested, and I still think it's pretty solid. The corrugations provide a way for moisture to drain away from the insulation, and I'm assuming the shipping container would have a way of expelling the collected moisture as I'm sure condensate happens while they're being used for shipping transport. Edit: Had another thought. Battens on the wall could still direct some moisture towards the insulation (albeit a lot less). Depending on budget, a properly constructed stud wall of some kind (could be very lightweight, considering it's non-loadbearing) might still be the best way forward. |
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Jun 19, 2018 21:38:44 GMT 10
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Post by Peter on Jun 19, 2018 22:09:37 GMT 10
I hadn't looked at the Earthwool.
It is cheaper on area alone, but I'd need to look at the comparison of price per area per R-Value.
Although I must say the Earthwool is already in the negative with their sales pitch of "the natural brown colour represents a level of sustainability and ease of handling never before acheived..."
They seriously think we're stupid enough to buy based on colour? Maybe they're right with some people...
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Post by graynomad on Jun 19, 2018 22:21:59 GMT 10
I think the two methods I mentioned (well certainly the second one) would not create condensation because they are bonded to the steel and as such the air doesn't touch a surface that's at or below the dew point. You could still get condensation on the inner wall if that gets cold though.
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Jun 19, 2018 23:39:19 GMT 10
Extracts from AS 3700 and AS 4773: ibb.co/fbagCy ibb.co/bQzV5JReading between the lines, "where insulation is placed in a cavity, the moisture resistance of the wall shall be maintained" suggests that if you're intending to insulate the cavity (not between the wall studs as is conventional), you need to ensure that the insulation method you are using acts as a barrier against moisture ingress. Material like rockwool do not act as a barrier, obviously. Note it also stipulates a minimum cavity of 40 mm width with proper detailing to prevent condensation damage to the internal framing/insulation. |
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ygidorp
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Post by ygidorp on Jun 19, 2018 23:46:43 GMT 10
I hadn't looked at the Earthwool. It is cheaper on area alone, but I'd need to look at the comparison of price per area per R-Value. Although I must say the Earthwool is already in the negative with their sales pitch of "the natural brown colour represents a level of sustainability and ease of handling never before acheived..." They seriously think we're stupid enough to buy based on colour? Maybe they're right with some people... Quick dig indicates the XPS has a R value of 1.0 (https://2ecffd01e1ab3e9383f0-07db7b9624bbdf022e3b5395236d5cf8.ssl.cf4.rackcdn.com/Product/7b937384-284f-4377-b605-f55c5f8bc8e0.PDF) cf the Earthwool R value of 2.0. Yeah... not sure what the sales person was smoking when they wrote that...  |
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