Ammo9
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Post by Ammo9 on Aug 24, 2016 19:19:35 GMT 10
Where's the strong point?
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Ammo9
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Post by Ammo9 on Aug 24, 2016 19:34:38 GMT 10
Was only half serious.. proactive trumps reactive nearly every time
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Post by Joey on Aug 24, 2016 20:24:29 GMT 10
Can still build in defensive lines around the place, elevated garden beds?
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Post by Peter on Aug 24, 2016 20:28:35 GMT 10
I think James Wesley, Rawles wrote something about that - although I don't recall where. He also mentioned that parking a Cat D8 in the driveway would work, so I sometimes question the feasibility of his recommendations.
I once sold an investment property to a military contractor; to avoid installing bollards they were able to put some very large planter boxes in front of doors to stop ram-raids. Anything difficult to drive through - that doesn't provide protective cover for an intruder - would serve the purpose.
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Post by Peter on Aug 24, 2016 20:33:39 GMT 10
I'm guessing soil type (especially drainage) would be a major factor there. Is there a high clay or rock content in the ground?
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Ammo9
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Post by Ammo9 on Aug 24, 2016 20:37:04 GMT 10
1m x 1m steel I beam and 2x4 garden beds with 60cm of steel above ground and 1m concreted in below ground would do the trick
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Post by Fractus on Aug 24, 2016 20:37:45 GMT 10
For me, the boundary fence should be fox resistant/proof as that allows you to be more flexible with inside facilities. Ie Geece in orchard, chickens moved in simple tractors.
Fox proof means dollars on it but you save on internal fencing. A little negotiating with neighbours obviously required.
The less fences internally the more machinery/rotary hoe friendly it is.
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Post by familyprepper on Aug 25, 2016 9:25:38 GMT 10
This sounds awesome
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Post by perthprepper on Aug 25, 2016 14:09:07 GMT 10
I don't have any advice, only jealousy  |
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tails
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Post by tails on Aug 25, 2016 17:35:15 GMT 10
Have a wee talk to your daughter about mission analysis. (to long to explain here...) especially the 7 W's. (if they come this way what will I do, what if they do that etc)
Sort out mostly likely entry points right down to the least likely. then remember the basic fundamentals regarding defence (layered, channeling, and killing zones etc) and then go from there..
Example.
Trees on boundary provides screening, (which your already considering)
say 5 - 10 metres in erect fence down (this area can be the dog run) They can rip it to pieces and do what they do best without stuffing up the rest of the property...
then Erect raised garden beds, (You will appreciate this later in life...) down one side erect a netting fence for your beans, peas etc... What this does is slow people down, also acts as the start of your channeling process, ie forcing people to where you can deal with them more effectively
20 -25 metre lawn from your house (ie a big cleared space. erect sensor lights preferably motion activated and on its own power source.) put fences in so that these too creates channeling and then the mrs can implement different gardening ideas.. winter summer, or themes etc...
Solar powered Garden lights, (good mood ones so that you and the mrs can sit on the deck and admire your surroundings...
Most least likely area of approach plant your orchard, put a reasonably high fence around it, reason being it keeps the dogs out, with the added advantage of really slowing people down.
create swales within the orchard (good for collecting water and channeling it down into the soil rather than running off. doing this also creates uneven terrain with the added advantage that when things turn bad you can place items to deter people... (see southern preppers 2nd latest video to get ideas. also here )
The dogs will not get injured... (They will be able to get to the fence and alert you,)
In your flower gardens incorporate thorny bushes. or stake in barb wire low entanglement that is hidden from view by the flowers and shrubs.
Remember you are not going to stop people just slow them down so you can deal with them effectively. you just need to know where they are....
just putting this out there..
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Post by familyprepper on Aug 25, 2016 19:36:13 GMT 10
No point having all these defences if there is nothing to defend
Did you say if there was a dam?
Have you thought about aquaponics
I have seen setups using the big square water tanks
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Post by familyprepper on Aug 25, 2016 19:37:04 GMT 10
Solar set ups with large battery storage
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Post by jo on Aug 25, 2016 20:35:52 GMT 10
All this is good, but what I was mainly after was info on setting the property up for food production. Always a good idea to have 1 veg garden bed that gets full winter sun (6-7 hrs) and summer shade/ protection you will be amazed what you can grow... my last northern winter bed was .5 m across and 2m long, it kept me in autumn/winter/spring tomatoes/cucumbers and brazillian spinach when not much was growing in other sections of the garden |
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Ammo9
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Post by Ammo9 on Aug 25, 2016 21:48:22 GMT 10
I'm no expert but from the house moving outward you'd probably want the chooks, the veges, the fruit trees then the bees.
I'm thinking this order because the chooks will be closest to protect from foxes and you'll have to tend them most often. Bees on the outside so they're not too annoying if you're entertaining outside
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Post by Peter on Aug 25, 2016 21:53:41 GMT 10
I'm no expert but from the house moving outward you'd probably want the chooks, the veges, the fruit trees then the bees. I'm thinking this order because the chooks will be closest to protect from foxes and you'll have to tend them most often. Bees on the outside so they're not too annoying if you're entertaining outside I'm loving the common-sense approach we see so often on this forum. Thanks Ammo9 - and others - for such solid input. |
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Frank
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Post by Frank on Aug 26, 2016 20:52:33 GMT 10
Good luck with it all FB, look forward to watching the project progress!!
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shinester
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Post by shinester on Aug 27, 2016 16:27:43 GMT 10
A key concept to permiculture is good water usage. What's the slope of the land like? Making 'S' bends down the slope of your land to help catch and use as much water as possible is one of the key considerations for permiculture. A program called 'sketchup' [3D program] can import topography data into it and you can get a generalised idea, though making some of your own sketches and going outside watching rainfall [or run stringline with a spirit or even clear tube with water in it] can give you good information about the slope and 'how' to catch the water and divert it as well as working with the natural features of the land. The plans are very much dictated by this to my mind. From there you form what will become fruit forests that utilize the water channels and add in other elements. Geese or chickens are a good companion with fruit forests/veggie patches using permiculture techniques as they become your hoe saving you labor. Here's a very rough approximation, again the land slope is the largest deciding factor. Starting out, a thick layer of whatever organic material you can get is the go, [there's waste products that are often free] and upon composing, the soil will be rich and fertile. Fruit/nut trees provide an abundance of food and the combination of nitrogen fixing plants continue to build your soil quality as will 'chicken tractors'. It can be done in stages.  In terms of secondary considerations such as security, a delta shaped perimeter gives you the best way to maintain defense and observation, the raised beds acting as 'sandbags' in times of need for others to get behind to support the very unlikely event of attack. The areas outside the delta are reserved for low growing veggies/ponds so cover and concealment is at a minimum. At the corners sheds would act as sheltered observation areas as well as additional rain catchment and storage. You might only fit hidding sandbags/etc in those corners and cut slots though most likely that would be done hastily in times of need. Simple string connected to magnetic break door buzzers keeps you aware of unobserved incursions and would be ideal further out to give prior warning.
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shinester
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China's white trash
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Post by shinester on Aug 28, 2016 8:12:54 GMT 10
Yeah you can see the slope, assuming the pic is done mostly level. The general idea is that you want to slow the water down so it seeps into the soil as much as possible and as little as possible runs off the piece of land so you get the most use from it. There's quite a few videos out there explaining permiculture, they're generally a little long winded without specific details, though the ideas make sense to my mind.
As well as firewood, the branches could be the base for much of your mulch [organic fertilizer].
The downside to my mind is the ongoing workload in permiculture, particularly the veggie garden aspect, to which is why my plans are aimed at no-pump hydroponics currently [still experimenting] in that area.
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ronnie
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farmer \timber cutter. a couple family members close by and myself and Anna.
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Post by ronnie on Aug 28, 2016 17:20:07 GMT 10
Sounds like you have a good plan going. We're close with ours as well. Over the hill and thru the woods to the house of Ron we go. Ha.
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Post by bushranger on Aug 29, 2016 17:43:15 GMT 10
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Jul 7, 2024 11:02:41 GMT 10
